Know how much power you have to work with. Do the math before you get too deep into adding on more things that could potentially drain your battery. None of your accessories will be of much use if your bike doesn’t have enough power to run them.
For this tutorial, we are working on a [G1] 2nd generation KLR650 that has had most of its lighting changed to LED bulbs. The power supply and usage is as follows:
- Gen-2 has an alternator or stator that outputs 17 Amps x 14 Volts = 238 Watts
- High beam headlight uses 55 watts
- Low beam headlight uses 55 watts (changed to 30 watt LED)
- Tail Light uses 8 watts (changed to 3 watt LED)
- High beam indicator 3.8 watts (changed to 3watt LED)
- Dash lights = 11.4 watts (3x 3.8watt LED bulbs) (Changed to 3 watt LED = 9watts)
ïGen-2 = Standard watts used 133.2. With the LED’s that were installed, only 100 watts.
Additional power used:
- Heated hand grips 60 watts
- GPS 10 watts
- Phone charging 6 watts
- Tablet charging 10 watts
An additional 86 watts will be used if the bike was to be supplying power to all added accessories that it was intended to run.
With everything requiring power, including hi-beams on, heated grips, and all things charging. We would be drawing 186 watts. The bike puts out 238 watts – 186 watts of maximum draw = 52 watts excess. Great news, we can still add more accessories in the future!
Tools you will require:
- Automotive grade wire
- 12V DC relay
- Crimp-on terminal attachments
- Heat protecting sheath or flexible sealant like JB Weld
- 4”-6” zip ties
- Crimping tool
- Needle nose pliers
- 12V or USB power accessory
There are a few different things you could do here. You could add in a power management tool or an additional fuse box. On this bike, there is not an abundance of aftermarket lights, etc., so we can easily use the fuse box already on the bike.
- First, you’ll want your bike on the center stands or a stable lift. Then remove the seat to gain access to the battery.
- Next remove the battery ground wire, so as not to cause a short.
- In these photos I already had a relay in place for my heated hand grips. If you need to install a relay these are the steps:
- Find a source of power that is active when the key is on. Use this as your power supply. Then splice in your relay power wire to this power supply.
- Attach the crimp on ends that attach from the relay to your power supply in one of two ways. Either solder the wire to the connector, then cover it with heat shield protector sheath. Alternatively, crimp it into place with a crimping tool and seal it to keep out the moisture. In these photos we enclosed the new wiring to the relay with a thick coat of JB Weld. You could also use a flexible silicone-based sealant like clear bathroom caulking. I originally installed the relay with the caulking 40,000 miles ago and have had no issues.
- Then, wire in your relay according to the instructions. Noting that it only works to displace positive power. Your negative power will still need to run back to the battery.